The desire to return and see firsthand how access to the Valley of the Temples and the Scala dei Turchi has been reorganized had been there for a while. So, I planned an intense two-day trip to check out the changes myself, and I must say, it was a delightful surprise!
First, the name… why is it called “Scala dei Turchi” (Stairway of the Turks)? It’s said that in the past, Saracen and Turkish pirates would find refuge here, taking advantage of the unique formation of the cliff, with its white limestone steps that resemble a staircase, facilitating the docking of their boats. This sheltered spot made it easier for them to come ashore and then carry out raids on nearby Sicilian towns.
Recently, the management of the Scala dei Turchi has changed, finally coming under the protection of the local municipality after years of uncertainty and even acts of vandalism. I still remember the outrage sparked by the recent incident when someone defaced the cliff with red pigment! Today, however, access is controlled under a municipal concession, allowing more regulated entry through tickets available online, also here: Scala dei Turchi Online Ticket Office.
I had a ticket for 3:00 PM, but they moved it up to allow entry only until 11 a.m. As it turned out, Rai had reserved the entire afternoon for a photo and video shoot. I arrived on time, managed to get in, and… surprise! The Scala dei Turchi was practically deserted: an intimate and evocative experience, as if the place was reserved just for me.
Even on a day with an overcast sky, the colors were extraordinary: the pure white against the deep blue of the sea created an almost surreal atmosphere, reminding me of the site of Pamukkale in Turkey.
Just steps from the cliff, on the beach, there was a small chiringuito open even in autumn—a perfect spot to take a break with coffee, beer, and sandwiches.
In short, a splendid morning in one of the most captivating places in Sicily, and I now understand even more why it’s considered a UNESCO heritage site.